Monday, May 31, 2010

USHUAIA - FIN DEL MUNDO



IT IS ONLY FITTING THAT AFTER A THREE HOUR DELAY, DUE TO AN AIR TRAFFIC CONTROLLER STRIKE,  WE CAME IN TO LAND OVER THE ICY SNOWY PEAKS OF CERRO MARTIAL, THE MASSIVE GLACIER, AND MONTE OLIVIA; ONLY THEN DID WE REALIZE, CONTRARY TO 5TH GRADE GEOGRAPHY, THAT HERE IN TIERRA DEL FUEGO THE ANDES DON´T RUN FROM SOUTH TO NORTH BUT FROM EAST TO WEST...AND WE  IMAGINED WE WERE ABOUT TO FALL OFF THE GLOBE!!!

THE FRIGID WATERS OF CANAL BEAGLE HEIGHTENS ONES SENSE OF THE ARRIVAL OF FIN DEL MUNDO - THE END OF THE WORLD.




THE ARCHIPELAGO IS KNOWN AS TIERRA DEL FUEGO OR LAND OF FIRE BECAUSE THE FIRST SHIPS PASSING BY SAW MANY FIRES ON THE SHORES WHICH WERE LIT BY THE ORIGINAL INHABITANTS WARNING OTHERS THAT SOMETHING STRANGE WAS ON THE WAY!




USHUAIA, THE CAPITAL OF TIERRA DEL FUEGO, STARTED OUT AS A PENAL COLONY IN 1884, PART OF AN ARGENTIAN GOVERNMENT PLAN, TO POPULATE THEIR HALF OF THE ARCHIPELAGO (THE OTHER HALF BELONGING TO CHILE) AS A MEANS OF REAFFIRMING SOVEREIGNTY. JUST TWO DECADES AGO USHUAIA HAD THE HIGHEST POPULATION GROWTH RATE IN THE WORLD. AS TOURISM GROWS ACROSS THE GLOBE USHUAIA HAS BECOME A FAVORITE STARTING POINT FOR VISITING ANTARTICA.




WE ARRIVED AT 11:00 PM AT THE TANGO B AND B TO BE GREETED BY RAUL AND CHRISINA, OUR SECOND GENERATION ITALIAN HOSTS. THE PLACE IS EXTREMELY CLEAN AND COMFORTABLE WITH MASSIVE VIEWS OUT OVER THE CHANNEL AND THE ANDES MOUNTAINS TO THE EAST.


 



LAS CORREO/POST OFFICE  USHUAIA



GIGANTIC JAGGED PEAK THAT PROTECTS THE CITY....MONTE OLIVIA

 ANDES MOUNTAINS TOWERING OVER USHUAIA

USHUAIA FROM THE EZEQUIL 


ON THE 29TH THE WEATHER VACILLATED BETWEEN SUN, CLOUDS, RAIN, AND FINALLY SNOW ALL BROUGHT FORTH BY THE COLD AUSTRAL WIND. WE KNOW THE MAIN STREET, SAN MARTIN, WELL SINCE WE KEPT VENTURING INTO SHOPS TO KEEP WARM! WE TRAVELED UP THE CANAL BEAGLE,  BY THE  CATAMARAN, EZEQUIL, TO SEE COLONIES OF COMORANTS, PERCHED PRECARIOULY ON SLIPPERY LEDGES.



SOUTH AMERICAN SEA LIONS AND FUR SEALS, SLUMBERING ON DESOLATE ROCKS OR LIKE GRACEFUL TORPEDOES, SPEEDING THOUGH THE FREEZING WATER, FAST AND AGILE. 



PLUS LES ECLAIREURS, USHUAIA'S SIGNATURE LONESOME LIGHTHOUSE, AT  THE HEAD OF THE CHANNEL WHERE THE ATLANTIC OCEAN CRASHES TO MEET THE PACIFIC OCEAN.






OUR RETURN FROM THE BEAGLE CANAL TO THE PORT OF USHUAIA.




 DO YOU THINK WE WERE A LITTLE EARLY FOR DINNER?



PLUS IS THAT WE HAD FOUR WAITERS, PEDRO, ALFREDO, MATHAIS AND FERNANDOS TO OURSELVES!  WHAT GREAT SERVICE WE HAD...RIGHT DOWN TO THE COMPLIMENTARY BAILEYS AT THE END OF OUR DELICIOUS MEAL!




ARGENTINES KNOW HOW TO BBQ!



A SQUID I AM SAVORING, THAT AND A BOTTLE OF ARGENTINA'S MALBEC...WE WERE TOTALLY SATIATED!!



BACK AT THE LAS TANGO WITH A COUPLE OF INCHES OF SNOW


ON SUNDAY, THE 20TH DAY OF OUR TRIP,  DAWNED WITH CALAFATE BLUE SKIES REACHING FROM THE MOUNTAIN TOPS TO THE SEA. WALKED OUT TO THE OLD AIRPORT ACROSS THE BAY OF USHUAIA FOR THIS PICTURE.



AGAIN WE ATE ALONE, BUT AGAIN WE ATE EARLY BY ARGENTINE STANDARDS, AS WE HAD A TANGO MUSIC SHOW GIVEN BY OUR HOST RAUL DE LUCA WHO IS A MUSICIAN BY TRADE. HE GAVE US A HISTORY OF TANGO MUSIC WHILE PLAYING MANY TUNES ON HIS ACCORDIAN TO TRANSPORT US THROUGH THE YEARS. RAUL AND HIS WIFE CHRISTINA, WHO ARE BOTH UNIVERSITY PROFESSORS, COMPOSED AND WROTE THE MUSIC FOR THE OFFICIAL MARCH OF USHUAIA IN 1983.





WE SHARED A BOTTLE OF MALBEC WHILE DISCUSSING POLITICS!

Friday, May 28, 2010

CEMENTERIO DE LA RECOLETA IN BUENOS AIRES AND COLONIA IN URAGUAY





MONUMENTS AND METAPHORS FOR A COUNTRIES FORTUNES, BOTH GAINED AND LOST.  ONE OF THE WORLD´S GREAT NECROPOLISES.





ONE OF THE CITY´S COLOURFUL MARKETS OUTSIDE THE CEMETARY...SINCE WE ARE BACKPACKING SHOPPING IS NECESSARILY KEPT TO A MINIMUM!


PICK-UP BAND ON THE STREET...ONE GUY HAD A ´¨WASHBOARD´¨ ON HIS CHEST AND GLOVES WITH METAL FINGERS!  MAYBE MY NEW MUSICAL INSTRUMENT!



MULTI-TASKING MOTHER !


SINCE WE WERE SO CLOSE TO URAGUAY WE DECIDED TO POP OVER THE WIDEST RIVER MOUTH IN THE WORLD, RIO DE PLATA, TO COLONIA FOR LUNCH.


BEAUTIFUL SUNNY DAY IN THE PLAZA WHERE WE LUNCHED.


EL DRUGSTORE, OUR LUNCH SPOT

 




DIDN´T HAVE ENOUGH CASH TO PAY, SO BORROWED 10 PESOS FROM KURT AND LARRY, FROM LOS ANGELES, AT THE TABLE NEXT DOOR, SO WE WOULDN´T HAVE TO WASH DISHES!






YEA!  ANOTHER PICTURE FOR OUR LIGHTHOUSE WALL!  THIS LIGHTHOUSE IS MOST UNUSUAL AS IT WAS CONSTRUCTED AS PART OF CONVENT RUINS.

BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA



WHEN ONE TRAVELS YOUR HORIZONS ARE EXPANDED IN MORE WAYS THAN ONE. WE WERE INCREDIBLY FORTUNATE TO ARRIVE IN BUENOS AIRES THE WEEK OF THE 25th DE MAYO! THE 200 YEAR ANNIVERSARY OF ARGENTINA´S DECLARATION OF INDEPENDENCE FROM SPAIN.

THE POPULATION OF BUENOS AIRES IS 3 MILLION, WE WERE AMONG THE SIX MILLION REVELORS THAT CELEBRATED THE EXHIBITS, PARADES, CONCERTS, GALAS, PRESENTATIONS, SPEECHES, FLOATS AND FANTASTIC FIREWORKS DEPICTING ARGENTINAS 200 YEARS.  THE JOY, EXUBERANCE, AND EXHILARATION OF THE ARGENTINES WAS THE MOST INCREDIBLE EXPERIENCE WE HAVE EVER ENCOUNTERED IN A BIG CITY....AND WE HAVE BEEN TO BOTH TIMES SQUARE AND TRAFALGAR SQUARE ON NEW YEAR´S EVE!  SINCE PERON´S RETURN FROM EXILE THERE HAVE NEVER BEEN SUCH CROWDS GATHERED. THERE WERE SEVEN PRESIDENTS, FROM OTHER SOUTH AMERICAN COUNTRIES, WALKING WITH CRISTINA FERNANDEZ DE KIRCHNER (ARGENTINÄ´S PRESIDENT), THROUGH THE MILLIONS AT PLAZA DE MAYO.

WE ARE STAYING IN PALEMRO, A VERY CHIC SECTION OF BUENOS AIRES. RENTING THE WOOLVERTON/JEWELL FAMILY APARTMENT. A HOME AWAY FROM HOME! MANY EXCELLENT RESTAURANTS, SHOPS, PARKS, AND MALLS TO KEEP US ENTERTAINED, EXERCISED, AND FED. AFTER A COUPLE OF DAYS WE MASTERED THE "SUBTE", AND HAVE VENTURED ONTO THE BUSES AND TAXIS. ON THE 25TH OF MAYO ALL PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION WAS FREE!

WE HAVE WALKED KILOMETERS, WHICH, IN OUR OPINION IS THE BEST WAY TO EXPLORE A CITY. THE OTHER INCREDIBLE EXPERIENCE IN A FOREIGN COUNTRY IS TO KNOW A FAMILY. WE WERE SO PRIVLEDGED TO MEET THE LERICI FAMILY, WHO ARE FRIENDS OF THE STEADMANS, FRIENDS OF OURS IN BRECKENRIDGE. NOT ONLY DID FERNANDO AND CINTHIA TREAT US TO AN UNBELIEVABLY FANTASTIC, AUTHENTIC TANGO SHOW, BUT THEY ALSO INVITED US TO THEIR HOME FOR A DELECTABLE DINNER. THEIR THREE CHILDREN, MATIAS, MARINA, AND CLARA ARE VERY TALENTED AND SPEAK ENGLISH BETTER THAN WE DO! BOTH NIGHTS WITH THEM WE DID NOT GET BACK TO THE APARTMENT UNTL 2:30 AM!




OUR FIRST LUNCH SPOT IN PALERMO...LA PHARMACIE
AVENIDA 9 de JULIO AS THE CROWD GATHER!



THE LERICI FAMILY, CINTHIA, MARINA, CLARA, MATHIAS, FERNANDO AND US!

FERNANDO VERY KINDLY SHOWED US THE PROCESS OF MAKING MATE...THE ALMOST UNIVERSAL DRINK MADE HERE IN SOUTH AMERICA, DRUNK OUT OF A GOURD...SOME OF WHICH ARE VERY ELABORATE!  MATIAS IS SINGING US A SONG, HIS OWN COMPOSITION ABOUT A TRIP HE AND HIS FRIENDS MADE TO URAGUAY...MATIAS IS IN LAW SCHOOL, A VERY TALENTED YOUNG MAN!



PLAZA DE MAYO - DEDICATED TO THE REVOLUTIONAIRES OF 1810 WHO ORCHESTRATED ARGENTINA´S INDEPENDENCE. FITTINGLY IT IS HERE WHERE MOST DEMONSTRATIONS AGAINST THE CURRENT GOVERNMENT ARE HELD, AND WHERE THE PERONS GAVE MANY OF THEIR SPEECHES.



  PLAZA DE MAYO HAS SEEN POST WORLD CUP VICTORY DANCES AND THE DEAFENING SILENCE OF LAS MADRES DE LA PLAZA DE MAYO´S WEEKLY MARCHES...WHO ARE DEFIANT MOTHERS OF THE CHILDREN WHO WERE ABDUCTED AND DISAPPEARED DURING THE 1976-1982 MILITARY DICTATORSHIP.  THERE WAS AN EXCITING, FANTASTICALLY BEAUTIFUL LIGHT SHOW ON THE FRONT OF THIS BUENOS AIRES TOWNHALL DEPICTING THE HISTORY OF ARGENTINA ON THE EVENING OF MAY 25TH.



GENERAL MANUEL BELGRANO, CREDITED WITH THE DESIGN OF THE ARGENTINE FLAG, IN FRONT OF CASA ROSADA, WHERE CRISTINA ENTERTAINED THE VISITING DIGNITARIES, PLUS 200 OTHER INVITATIONS WERE SENT OUT FOR THE CELEBRATIONS. ...I GUESS OURS GOT LOST IN THE MAIL!


EL OBLISCO COMMEMORATES THE 100TH ANNIVERSARY THE FOUNDING OF
BUENOS AIRES.



PLAZA SAN MARTIN -  MONUMENT TO GENERAL SAN MARTIN, HERO OF THE FIGHT FOR INDEPENDENCE FROM SPAIN.



GALERIAS DE PACIFICO ON CALLE FLORIDA DEFINES LUXURIOUS ! 


EL CAMINITO, A SECTION OF LA BOCA WHICH TEEMS WITH ARTISTS AND MUSEUMS!  TANGO DANCERS ON THE STREET ARE COMMONPLACE!



LA BOMBONERA (THE CHOCOLATE BOX) HOME OF BUENOS AIRES MOST FAMOUS FOOTBALL TEAM  BOCA JR...SQUEEZED IN AMONGST THE HOUSES AND BUILDINGS!


WE WERE OVERJOYED TO SEE THE RE-OPENING OF TEATRO COLON, ARGENTINA´S MOST BELOVED BUILDING, ON 24TH DE MAYO AFTER TWO YEARS OF EXHAUSTIVE RENOVATION.



PASSIONATE, INTENSE AND SOULFUL SUMS UP THE VIBRANT TANGO, WHICH WAS DEVELOPED IN BUENOS AIRES...WE WOULD BOTH BE TOTALLY BRUISED IF WE TRIED IT! 


THE ELABORATE CULMINATION OF A FANTASTIC SHOW...WITH 12 HUGE ARGENTINE FLAGS!